In search of Dordogneshire: Bergerac in the time of Brexit

Back when I was researching English incomers in the Ariège Pyrenees, many people cited Dordogne as a kind of benchmark. It was a way to disassociate themselves from that stereotype of Little England: 'I think people come here because they don't want that Dordogne thing. They want to take part in the French culture. They …

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Jardins de la Fontaine, Nîmes

A stopover in Nîmes: slow travel in the South of France.

It’s the first day of spring, although the Jardins de la Fontaine smell more like early summer. Half the population of Nîmes is sitting on the lawns of the 17th century park, like the Uber Eats cyclist taking a break, and the other half are in the outdoor cafes of the old town. I walk …

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Le pont d'Avignon

Missing out the ‘must-sees’: a little flânerie in Avignon

Have you ever spent time visiting the must-sees of a city and then slowly realised that it’s the hidden corners, the people and the feelings that stay with you over time, rather than what Tripadvisor tells you are The Ten Best Things to do in...?